Sunday is the best day and the worst day to visit San Telmo. Everyone is there on Sunday. They close some streets, the sidewalks barely allow 2 people to walk side by side so the place feels mobbed, even when it is not very crowded, but today it was really crowded.
The weather is good. Autumn in Buenos Aires.. it hardly gets better than this ( weather-wise) .. cool nights so you sleep like a bebe ... sunshine, bright blue skies and dry and cool but not too cool days.
The sort of weather that enables a person to walk much farther than they planned ... until the dog looks pathetic and you reluctantly turn back .
The sort of day that you sit way too long on a park bench and admire the simple things... sky , tiny birds and bright green parrots all pecking away on the ground together, flowers still blooming in trees ..
Although those flowers are starting to get on my nerves... they fall on the ground and rot .. you are jabbering away to your husband about this and that and step on a dead rotting flower and you get the same result as if you stepped on an oil slick or ice ...
Thank goodness he was right there, I grabbed him before I slid into 1- a split that would cripple me for weeks , 2- I fell and would have to hide in the apartment for years in case someone saw me fall.
No, I am not perfect, but I like people to think I am ... Perfect People do not slip on a flower and fall on their bum in the middle of a park ... according to me.
My sweet Pup feels the need to sniff every blade of grass and I am content to stand here and daydream, watching the feria across the street and the young boys doing their imitation of Michael Jackson dancing to his music while they video each other with their phones. How cute is that ?
Then there is the usual fighting off the dogs so they will stop trying to get too up close and personal with Pup.
So we were in San Telmo, Pup was relaxing at home and my sister in law was ready to do some shopping . She is so funny, our nephew says she has radar, she can be a mile away and suddenly turns and zooms in on one little shop or feria stand and finds the perfect Amethyst Ring or Handbag or Necklace.
The woman is going home totally decked out in new jewelry and carrying a new bag , who knows what else , she has 3 more days !
We took the taxi to San Telmo and I regretted being there the minute we arrived.
Masses of people.
It was just too difficult to get around with worrying about sis in law falling on the cobblestones..
I don't like big crowds anymore.
I want to shop at my own pace and I don't want someone to give me a sales pitch in English.
I am not a tourist, I want to say, nose in the air ... I am a Permanent Resident..
( no, I am not getting over this good news so quickly, you might have to hear about it a few more times)
So we took a back street and admired the architecture, the bougainvillea climbing over walls, mysterious huge gates with beautiful iron work and flowers growing and wondering what is behind that gate ...
Little cats in windows and dogs everywhere ..
We wandered into an arcade, all I heard was English but then there was the music.
I zoomed straight towards that sound and found this tiny shop with incense burning and bought a CD that is this amazing music from Argentina. We have not listened to all of it yet but so far it is great.
There was a man and a lady doing Tango in the street, they would take a person from the crowd and dance, everyone watched, everyone clapped, very jolly and the music was good.
Speaking of music, there were musicians in the street, in front of a church. They had a piano, accordians, violins, I could have stayed there all day listening .. the music here is so great ..
Then we found a cafe and had lunch.
Couscous salad with cherry tomatoes and mango and arugula, grilled tuna , a "club sandwich" made with panceta, fried egg, melted cheese and sliced roast chicken.
Finally we decided that we had done enough walking on cobblestones and grabbed a taxi home.
I think my sister in law headed straight to the feria, we took the dog to the park.
I am cooking tonight.
Pasta with Smoked Salmon in Creamy Tomato Sauce , ( I don't use cream cheese and I have adapted the recipe to our taste) with Avocado and Tomato Salad and Ice Cream Bon Bons for dessert.
Think they will like it ?
Tomorrow, I am not sure what we are doing, time is flying, they will be leaving soon and life will return to the usual .. it has been so nice to have them here.